Most yards have at least one spot where the sun does not shine. It can sit bare and unattractive or it can be one of the eye-catching focal points of the yard. Most of these areas receive little to no sun, are usually a damp environment, are protected in some way – shadow of a building/tree coverage/fence shadow – but there are many attractive perennial plants that thrive in these conditions.

If there has not been anything growing in the area you will need to prepare the site properly. Usually in these areas the soil has been compacted down and drainage is poor, so you will need to dig the soil up and turn the soil over, try to break up large dirt balls. Add new soil to the area to bring in new nutrients and to help with better drainage.

Some of the most common perennial plants that do well in these situations are listed below.

Moss

Mosses are a dense plant that grow together as mats or cushions, some are very tolerable to walk on, so are perfect for along a path way/walk way and are a very rich green. The rich green color of Moss brightens up a dark, shaded area and goes well with other shade loving plants.
Some of the mosses available in our area that do well are:

Creeping Jenny – Bright yellow ?owers boom in midsummer and enjoys part to full shade/prefers moist areas and withstand moderate foot traf?c. Good as a fast/ aggressive spreader.

Irish and Scotch Moss – These mosses can stand sunlight as long as they are kept moist and will tolerate moderate foot traf?c. Irish Moss is bright green and Scotch Moss is golden green, they have small white ?owers in late spring.

Woolly Thyme – Fuzzy, grey-green foliage with small pink ?owers in early summer, very fragrant when stepped on. These will do well in full sun or part shade and prefers nutrient-poor soil. Thrives in dry conditions.

Hostas

The Hosta plant is one of the most popular perennials for shade gardens, although some can be grown in full sun/part shade. With so many Hostas available, the gardener has many choices of colors to choose from.

Blues – Mississippi Delta has large blue-grey leaves with white blooms in July. Queen Of The Seas is a medium growing Hosta with blue-green leaves and lavender blooms in June. Silver Bay is a slow growing, smaller Hosta with silver-blue leaves and light lavender blooms in July/August.
Variegated – Hanky Panky a small, fast growing Hosta with dark green leaves with gold-colored borders and a narrow white thread in between, violet blooms in July. Rainforest Sunrise a golden-leafed Hosta with very dark green borders with pale lavender blooms in July. Risky Business a medium Hosta with pure white leaves and wide, deep green borders, violet blooms in July/August.

Golds and Yellows – Early Spring is a small, slow-growing Hosta with pale lavender blooms in July. Great Lakes Gold is large with rippled leaf margins with pale lavender blooms in June. Rosedale Golden Goose is large, vigorous and thick leafed, blooms lavender in July.

Ferns

Ferns can add a “soft” touch to your garden with their ornate fronds. They are a low-maintenance plant that does well in woodland, water/rock gardens, underneath trees and shrubs and shady sites.

Ostrich Fern is one of the tallest ferns with light green fronds. Lady In Red Fern has vibrant burgundy stems that contrast sharply with the mid-green fronds. Miss Sharples Maidenhair Fern has fresh green fronds that mature to chartreuse with bronze over-tones.

Brunnera

Brunnera plants fabulous foliage makes this a most have for a shady garden. A tough plant with mounds of heart-shaped leaves and usually small blue ?owers that resemble forget-me-nots.

Variegata has bright blue blooms with wide, irregular, creamy white margins on grey-green leaves.

Brunnera Macrophylla (Betty Bowring) has small white ?owers which makes a good contrast against its dark green foliage. Jack Frost has small blue ?owers that stand out in this very distinct Brunnera with its frosted foliage with silvery overlay and greenish veins which have a “crackly” look.
These are a few plants that will grow well in our shaded areas and are good companions as they all require the same lighting, water requirements and all can have a good layer of mulch added around each plant. Adding a bird bath to the area will also help with problem insects that also enjoy the shade.

Next up, Sun Loving Plants.

Happy Gardening

Even though there is still snow on the ground, one can still get ready for spring/summer
planting now. Gardeners can start preparing their containers/pots for spring planting.
Containers/pots are a great way to create splashes of colors in areas of the garden that
may not otherwise be able to have plants grow due to sun conditions, poor soil or are
situated on decks/patios.

Be ahead of the game by preparing your containers now to make spring tasks a little
less “busy” come planting time. One should never use a dirty container as there can be
harmful organisms that linger on the inside of the containers/pots, so clean your
containers/pots now. Wash out the inside of the containers/pots with warm soapy water
and if need be use a strong scrub brush to remove any excess old soil or roots stuck on
the inside of the containers/pots. Turn upside down to get extra water out and then dry
the inside out with paper towels or an old rag. If you are storing the containers/pots
outside make sure they are completely dry to avoid cracking. Once the weather warms
up enough, any temperature over the freezing mark during the day and no lower than -5
Celsius at night you can start adding your soil to the containers/pots. Use a good
quality soil as your plants will have to rely on the nutrients from this soil all growing
season and maybe a little help from some fertilizer throughout the season. Using soil
from your garden is much to “heavy” and ends up compacting as you water and thus
retains too much water which will affect your plants from growing properly.
Make sure your containers/pots have adequate drainage. Plants become waterlogged
if there is no drainage and the roots will rot, killing your plants. Make sure there is at
least one larger hole in the containers/pots and if necessary (and able) make more
holes.

Containers/pots require more water than plants that grow in garden beds, as they dry
out quicker, so providing suffcient water is necessary. Test your soil by sticking your
finger in the soil up to the second knuckle. If it is dry, water. If it is moist or wet, wait until
it is dryer.

One can use most any type of containers/pots for flowers. But once again make sure
there is adequate drainage. Old cans, old decorative pots/buckets even old cowboy
boots can be used, just make sure they have been washed and cleaned properly. If you
find a clay or glass pot that may work, you may not be able to drill drainage holes but
you can place washed rocks in the bottom (about 1-2 inches thick). Be careful of not
over watering, as the water will drain to the bottom and sit and will take the roots a
longer time to absorb the excess water.

Almost any plant will do well in containers/pots as long as you know what kind of care
the plants need. Combining multiple plants in the same containers/pots will require
similar watering, light and care needs (don’t plant shade loving plants with sun loving
plants or water loving plants with succulents).

Having different multiple plants in one container/pot will have an attractive appearance
for visual effect and add dimension to the container/pot. Combine a plant with height, a
plant that is bushy (something that will fill out over the growing season) and a plant that
“spills” over the edges. The container/pot may look sparse in the beginning but within a
few days/weeks everything will fill out and grow and fill the container/pot completely for
a look that others will be envious of.

In soil, there is a complex mixture of different ingredients containing all the nutrients for healthy plants. Plants extract these nutrients through their root system, many of these nutrients are trace elements, meaning that they are needed in such minute quantities that they are not likely to be depleted. Others need to be replaced to keep the soil productive.

Of the 16 elements known, three come from the air and water, these are carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. The rest are taken from the soil itself. As stated earlier, many elements are so micro that they most likely will not be depleted but others will need to be replaced. The three elements that are used up the fastest are, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, these nutrients are the chief ingredients.

Nitrogen is one of the building blocks required continually as the plant is growing as the plants need it for the plant cells. Nitrogen stimulates vegetable/plant growth as it is part of both protein and chlorophyll molecules. If your soil is lacking nitrogen your plants will produce yellow or light green leaves, depending on how low your nitrogen is in the soil. Leaves may turn brown and drop off. Usually, the lower leaves will be the first to show signs of this. Nitrogen is water soluble and is usually the most deficient element. When purchasing fertilizer, nitrogen is the first number in the three digits located on the bag/bottle.

Phosphorus aids in the plants root, flower and fruit development. Having a high content of phosphorus at planting time will favor rapid root and stem growth. Phosphorus is not soluble, so it needs to be worked into the soil so the roots can absorb it. It can be hard to tell if you are lacking phosphorus but if you notice your plants are stunted this could be an indication of low phosphorus, also leaves can be very dark green which later can turn purple or red on the underside. On fruit trees, the leaf stems will be purple. When purchasing fertilizer, phosphorus is the second number in the three digits located on the bag/bottle.

Potassium is required for the movements of sugars and nutrients within the plant. Potassium will form stronger stems and roots and will deepen the flower color. Potassium is soluble and will wash out slowly after watering or a rain. Having a shortage of potassium will cause yellowing of the leaves, similar to that of a shortage of nitrogen, except that the yellowing occurs on the margins of the leaves at first. The margins will then turn brown and the leaves will curl under. When purchasing fertilizer, potassium is the third number in the three digits located on the bag/bottle.

Other nutrients in soil are calcium, sulfur, magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum and chlorine, these are usually the trace elements found in soil and most times will not have to be replenished. Some plants prefer to have a higher content of some of the trace elements, for example tomatoes enjoy having extra calcium in the soil.

Having your soil tested is the only true way of learning what your soil contains. Check with your provincial agricultural office to find out if this is available, or you can purchase a soil testing kit yourself, available at most garden centers.

To have a successful garden or potted plants/flowers the key ingredient starts with your soil. There are different varieties available in all sorts of different sized bags or in bulk form. Depending on your need for use of the soil, will depend on how much and what type to purchase.

If you are doing a top dressing on your lawn you will most likely need plenty of good screened soil or screened loam. This soil will have been put through a screening process to remove large chucks, rocks and weeds. It will add fresh nutrients to your lawn to help make it a lush, healthy lawn. Screened soil can also be added to your garden to also add nutrients and “bulk” up your garden site. By adding more soil to your garden site your plants roots will be able to extend wider and deeper into the soil, thus healthier and better productivity will be achieved.

A good soil for your flower pots is a mix of different ingredients. A garden mix soil or loam has a mix of compost, organic mulch and soil. This soil (with its compost material and organic mulch) will have enough nutrients in the soil to feed your plants throughout the growing season. Adding perlite will provide aeration and optimum moisture retention for better plant growth. Improving the texture, structure and workability of your soil is easily done by adding sand and organic matter in early spring before planting or late fall. Your soil should hold water well and drain easily.

Adding a Mulch to your flower beds will help with water retention, with weed retention and help with root insulation. A fine wood chip will do all these but will not be as decretive as a larger wood chip, and the gardener will need to replenish the mulch each year. Mulch should be applied on “fragile” plants (roses for example) for winter protection. A fine wood chip can be worked into your soil for composting and will help with water retention and air flow through the soil.

Plants draw nutrition from the soil, so as a gardener, keeping your soil well stocked and maintained is one of your most important jobs.

Happy Gardening!

The other evening I came upon 3 June Bugs. This prompted me to write about a few of the 1000′s of different bugs a gardener can come across in the yard and gardens.

If you have never seen a June Bug (Beetle) you’d be quite surprised. They are a very large beetle; the ones I saw were about the size of a loony and can get even larger. These beetles were coming from our grassed area and onto our gravel driveway. I became quite curious as to what they were doing and were these beetles doing good things to our yard or bad? After some research on these large beetles I discovered they not the type of bug you want in your yard. The larval stage (white grub) of the June Beetle will feed on grass, grass roots, farm crops and garden crops. Feeding on the grass will kill the turf and allow weeds to grow in the dead patches. The adult beetle will also feed on flowers. To control these beetles naturally, planting geraniums in your garden will help repel white grubs. A well-watered, fertilized, aerated lawn will provide a resistance to the grubs. The adults like to lay the eggs in thin grass so a thick, healthy lawn with good root growth will discourage the adults. Raking the lawn will help to expose the grubs so their natural predators such as crows, magpies and other birds will find them (unfortunately skunks and moles are also a natural predator of the white grub). Another “natural” product is parasitic nematode which can be purchased from garden centers. For a chemical cure a pesticide labeled for white grubs can be affective also.

Of course not all bugs are bad. As most gardeners know, Earthworms are one of the best, hardworking helpers one can have. They tunnel through the soil which helps with the air and water circulation for your plants roots. As they tunnel through they leave their droppings – called castings, atop the ground and are rich in nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium, important nutrients for a healthy, prospering yard and or garden. Earthworms can be purchased if you feel that you are lacking them.

Another beneficial insect is the Dragonfly. They are one of the best fliers of the insect world and will feed on many insects such as gnats and mosquitoes. They are an amazing insect to watch as they “buzz” through the air capturing flying insects. They will eat many times their weight in mosquitoes every day. They also eat the larvae of the mosquito. They are found around water as this is where the lifecycle of the dragonfly starts but once mature will travel where ever their food is. So before you go to try and kill these insects, think about the benefits of them in your yard and how the mosquito population is affected.

Mosquitoes are one of the most annoying insects we encounter through the spring and summer seasons. Only the females will bite. To help control the mosquito population, eliminate standing water in your yard, they can breed even in the smallest amount of water. If you have a rain barrel, ornamental pond or water for pets, there are steps one can take to discourage mosquito habitats. A rain barrel can have a tight lid and a screen placed on the inflow, this helps with only water passing into the rain barrel (no leaves, twigs, etc.) thus making it less like pond water and discouraging mosquito activity. An ornamental pond can have an aeration pump installed which would keep the water moving or stock the pond with fish, as the fish would eat the larvae of the mosquito. Pet water should be emptied and filled regularly to prevent mosquito larvae and fungus to build in the bowl. Another solution is a garlic spray for your lawn or there are foggers available as well as bug zappers and citronella candles. These are just temporary solutions and will need to be reapplied throughout the season.

Pollinators are very valuable insects. Common examples are honeybees, bumblebees, butterflies, moths and wasps. Without these insects our flowers and fruit trees would not produce the seeds to continue producing. To keep these insects returning to your yard try to minimize your spraying of insecticides and only spray in the evenings after bees return to their nest. Planting pollen and nectar flowers will have them returning continually.

Ladybugs (Lady Beetle/Ladybird), both adult and larvae feed on aphids and soft bodied pests, as well as on insect eggs. Adults can consume 330 to 400 aphids in a month and the larvae can consume 200 to 300 aphids during their development. If you have many aphids in your garden you may want to purchase a bag of ladybugs to help control those aphids. To encourage the ladybugs to stay in your yard/garden, water the garden thoroughly and wait for evening to release the beetles. Adequate moisture and an ample supply of aphids may entice them to make a home in your garden.

Aphids will cluster on many of our favorite garden plants and houseplants. Both adult and nymphs suck plant sap from most growing plants, flowers, vegetable, fruits shade trees and conifers. Aphids can spread plant viruses as they feed. As they feed, they secrete a sweet honeydew onto the leaves below, which supports growth of sooty mold. Their feeding often causes distortion of leaves, flowers and buds, severely infested leaves and flowers may drop off and buds may not open. Giving your plants a hard spray with the hose nozzle can help remove aphids from your plants and having natural predators (Ladybugs, Lacewings or wasps) will be very beneficial in helping to control these small distractive pests.

Happy Bug Hunting

Preparing the garden site can and will take some time and effort on the gardeners part. Of course, depending on the size of the garden plot will depend on how much time and effort will be spent not only preparing it but also for later with weeding and watering. Tilling or turning your soil and compost material into the existing soil will help distribute the nutrients deep into the site for the vegetable roots to draw on. Once the site has been tilled, rake it out to a smooth, flat area — this also gives the gardener a chance to remove debris, such as rocks, twigs, etc. It also allows you to break up large clumps of soil. Have a plan for your rows of vegetables or as I like to call it “My Map”.

Always put onto paper what plants are grown where and how many you have placed in each row, where possible. Small seeds such as carrots are not counted, but potatoes, onions, and larger seeds can be.

The vegetables should be rotated (moved) each year, as this allows the plants to gather the different nutrients to be used (left by last years vegetable growing season). If you grow the same crop in the same patch of soil for several years, it will deplete the nutrients essential to that plant and your yields will decrease. Also, pests and diseases that attack a particular plant will build up in the soil and the crop will always be under attack.

When designing your vegetable garden remember to leave walkways between your rows. Since nothing is planted in the walkways they will get weeds growing and will have to be tended, by hoeing, tilling or pulling the weeds by hand.

Try not to crowd plants into less space than they require. Melons and Squash can spread their “vines” out for many feet, so if your garden is small you may want to try growing them up onto a trellis. Corn grows tall and will shade other vegetables growing nearby. Radishes and lettuce take little room and can be planted in amongst other vegetables that will be harvested later in the season. Interplanting vegetables can yield a high harvest even in the smallest of gardens. Planting fast-maturing vegetables (lettuce/spinach/radishes) with slow growing vegetables (peppers/tomatoes) enables you to save on space and yet gives you a variety of vegetables at the same time.

Watering is essential for your vegetables. Young plants have shallow roots but as they mature their roots will go deeper into the soil where moisture remains even if the surface is dry. Watering in the morning is best, as is deep watering. A thorough deep water will encourage the roots to go deeper, where a brief, shallow watering will keep the roots at the surface where they can dry out from the heat of the sun or be damaged by hoeing or tilling. Plants require between 3 to 4 centimeters of water each week. Have a container placed in the garden where you can gauge the amount of water. If there has been rain then the watering requirements will be less.

Some gardeners like to mulch their gardens. A mulch is a soil cover composed of different organic materials. Good mulches include grass clippings and leaves, or if available, hay. Mulch around plants will help conserve moisture and also helps in keeping weeds down. Organic mulches will decompose slowly and will add nutrients back into the soil once it is incorporated into the soil. Placing mulch on the walkways will keep weeds down.

No matter your garden size, it is always a tasty treat having fresh vegetables straight from your own garden.

Enjoy

Every gardener requires at least some tools/implements to help with they’re gardening needs. Depending on the size of your lot, your specific garden areas — do you have just flower beds or vegetable garden or both? — lawn area size, all these factors will come into play when looking for the tools that will meet your needs.

When purchasing tools, buy what you can afford, quality is very important and the higher grade tool will last much longer then a lesser quality tool. Before purchasing any tool, try it out. Make sure the tool fits you, the gardener. Does it suit your height, weight and strength? Long-handled shovels are difficult for short people and a tall person will surely have a backache if they are doubled over with a shovel that is too short. The tool should feel well balanced when you pick it up, the handle should fit your grip comfortably and the working end should not weigh too much. If you are just starting out with gardening you don’t have to purchase everything at once but having the “essentials” is a good start.

Shovels
There are a wide variety of shovels and sometimes one does not know which to purchase. A square-ended shovel and a round-ended spade for digging in the vegetable “patch” are very beneficial. These shovels can also be used in and around your flower beds.

Garden Fork or Pitch Fork
These are a great tool for light digging and harvesting root crops/potatoes.

Hoe
Used for weeding, cultivating and opening seed furrows.

Garden Hose with Sprinkler
Depending on your area, garden hoses come in different lengths and ply. They can range in lengths from 15 feet up to 100 feet. Once again the quality is important and purchase what you can afford. Soaker hoses are a great way to water deep around plants and vegetables as the water drips directly down into the soil and there is no evaporation. When you water try to water early in the morning as this will give the plants time to absorb the water throughout the day and will also give the leaves a chance to dry before nightfall. Watering at night can cause funguses to develop. Sprinklers come in a wide variety as well. Look at the way the sprinkler works, how the water is distributed and what the range or square foot coverage is. If one is lucky enough to have an under-water watering system, set your timer to come on in the early morning and remember a good deep soak is better than short waterings.

Watering Can
In todays market, there are different types of wonderful watering cans. They range from plastic to “fancy” metal/ceramic cans. It really is the gardeners choice as they all do the same job, water your flower pots and hanging baskets! Using a watering can on your flower pots and hanging baskets seem to help with less mess than by doing it with the hose as the dirt tends to stays in the container.

Rake
A good steel rake is great for breaking up and smoothing the soil. A large or small fan rake is ideal for cleaning up fall leaves.

Pruners
There are three different types of pruners for different pruning. When pruning, your pruners should always be sharp to avoid damage to the plant, shrub or tree. Use the pruning shears for dead heading flowers, trimming up small branches and removing shoots. Long handled lopping shears for larger stems/branches. And the pruning saw for large branches. Some knowledge is required when pruning trees and shrubs and if you are unsure how to do it correctly you should consult with a knowledgeable arborist.

Hand held small tools
There are small hand held tools available to the gardener such as a small shovel, small cultivator/hoe, small trowel and weeder. These are handy for container gardening and small jobs in the flower beds.

Lawn Mower
There are gas powered, electric and push mowers, it is just a preference that you, the gardener may have. Depending on the size of your lawn area can determine what type of lawn mower is needed. A small area can be mowed with a hand pushed type whereas a very large area may require a ride on type of mower. If you do have a lawn area then having a mower is required to have a manicured yard.

Trimmers/Spin Trimmers
Once again these tools come in a wide variety. There are long handle clippers, gas powered and electric. The trimmer helps clip the grass at the edges of sidewalks, edges of garden areas, and along fences and walls. Trimmers are not necessarily essential but they sure help with a “finished” look for your yard.

Wheelbarrow
If you are planning on moving dirt, landscaping, patio or deck building, etc., than having a wheelbarrow will make the job easier. A couple of types are the usual 1 wheel type (these tend to move around obstacles easier and are easier to control on uneven surfaces) and the 2 wheel type are more stable but will require wider turns.

Remember you spent good money on your tools and they deserve to be taken care of also. Clean them off after using them, keep them stored properly, and keep sharp tools sharp. There are so many different tools available for the gardener so choose the tools that you feel you require to get started and as you progress you will find you will add new tools along you’re gardening journey.

Spring is upon us and it is time to start thinking about what we need to do before we can plant our gardens. Be it flowers or vegetables or both. Whether you are a beginner or a long time gardener, we are always learning, especially here in the Calgary area. Putting down on paper a plan now will benefit the gardener in the coming months of growing for our visual pleasure later.

To start, make a list of items you require and bring the list when going shopping (save yourself wasted trips to the store because you forgot to buy “soil or seeds”). You may have to make a couple of trips to the store because it is a little early to purchase your annuals along with your soil or seeds. With a list you will have crossed off the “early” buys and still know what needs to be purchased on your next shopping trip – this will also save you money as you will not duplicate items already purchased. Your list could include your potting soil/topsoil, flower seed, perennial plants and vegetable seeds. Getting to the Garden Centers early in the season will also give you a better selection of products before they are “picked” over.

Garden soil/topsoil can be ordered early and delivered anytime in the spring, especially now with soil in convenient reusable/recyclable bags!! The soil is there when you decide to use it with no pile of dirt and no mess. One day you can add a top dressing of soil on your grass and another day fill your flower pots. There is no “pressure” to get the soil “used” in one day. The gardener can use it at his/her own time. This can also benefit the gardener as it helps with less stress on the gardeners muscles as the work is spread out over days and time. Adding new soil each year will add the nutrients and organic material needed for healthy flowers for the growing season. Put your last years soil into your existing flower beds or vegetable garden, building up those areas.

Happy Planning

If you are not a gardener this may sound a little odd – Happy Vegetables! For the gardener who has spent money on purchasing seeds, plants, soil and invested their time planning, planting and weeding their “beloved” vegetables, they expect to see results of a bountiful harvest. To achieve this result, your vegetables must be Happy before you the gardener can be Happy.

One of the most important ingredients is your soil. Does it have enough nutrients and organic material to sustain it through the whole growing season? An “ideal” soil is friable (easily crumbled), deep, fertile, well drained and high in organic matter, but unfortunately there isn’t the “ideal” soil. As a gardener, we all would like to think we have the best soil but each of us will have something missing. We have two options, we can invest time and some money in changing and improving it or we can “get by with what we have”. The latter option will not produce our “Happy” vegetables, therefore the gardener will be unsatisfied.

Organic materials (compost/Humus) is one great option to help amend soil weakness. Added to sandy soil, water retention is increased; added to a clay soil it becomes more friable. Till or work it deep into heavy soil and drainage will improve. Types of organic material/Humus include: manure; compost; peat moss; and sawdust. The sawdust should only be a natural wood, no treated/preserved wood, as the chemicals in the treated wood will harm your plants. The manure should be well rotted or old (sitting in a pile for 2 years or longer) as fresh manure will burn your plants. Applying your organic material in the Fall will give the microorganisms a chance to break down and decompose for the Spring planting. Now a days, gardeners have many options when buying soil and other amendments such as different manures (sheep, cow, horse, chicken) and compost. All conveniently sold in bags of different sizes and weights.

Different vegetables can benefit by adding certain “ingredients” in and around them. For example, Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so adding ample quantities of compost or decomposed (well-rotted) manure will be beneficial. Peas will benefit from having wood ashes scattered around the base of the pea vines to help control aphids. For sweet tasting Carrots add a mixture of lime, compost and potash into the soil before you plant the seeds.

These few helpful ideas will keep your vegetables Healthy and Happy and you the gardener Happy at time of harvest.

Happy Gardening

The first thing that comes to mind when I think of spruce and pine mulch is that it smells great! That’s true of course but when thinking of adding any kind of mulch to your Calgary home landscape; it’s much more than a pretty smell. It has many practical uses for your garden and landscape as well.

Mulch controls weeds. And since mulch controls weeds that means less back breaking weed pulling for you! By keeping the weeds out of your garden, there is less competition for water and nutrients from the soil. Mulch helps to prevent soil compaction which then also encourages earthworms which naturally aerate and drain your soil. Have mulch around the base of your fruit tree to provide a soft landing for ripened fruit and reduce rot by keeping the fruit out of contact with the soil. Mulch also helps to maintain soil moisture by reducing evaporation which means less need for water and that’s always a good thing.

Applying too much mulch can be a problem so make sure to check the depth. Your layer of mulch should be about 2-4 inches deep. If the area where you are intending to add mulch already has mulch there, you will want to remove the old mulch and replace it. Or add on top of it but not to exceed the ideal 2-4 inch depth.

Mulch has numerous practical uses and in some cases smells great! Include an organic mulch such as a spruce and pine mulch in your Calgary gardening plans this year!